udini´s climbing video blog

Kranj Lead WC 2009, Womens final

Udo Neumann — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 17:48:06 +0100

I don't recall a female contest on such a high level with so many blunders! At the end only Mina Markowitch and Akiyo Noguchi (bouldering WC winner) climbed their best and took first and second. It has been a long season for Johanna Ernst and of course for all the others too! As mentioned above, there are not so many occasions where a climber of Johanna's caliber looks so confused in a horizontal roof! Also, she misses the knee bar for a rest and therefore most likely the victory at Kranj. Still she won the lead WC 2009!

Kranj Lead WC 2009, Mens final

Udo Neumann — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 17:42:27 +0100

In 2009, only Adam Ondra can beat Adam Ondra! If he doesn't make a mistake (like he did a week before at Brno) he will win. It has been a while since the rock climbing world and the competition scene could agree on one champion. In 2009 Adam Ondra climbed the most not only hard but also diverse rock routes and won the World Cup. There is nothing super human or magical about Adam, he just brings, for the time being, the most complete climbing skill set to the table.
Here Adam climbs side by side with the second placed Sachi Amman from Japan and Austria's Jakob Schubert (third place).

Puurs Lead WC 2009, Men's final

Udo Neumann — Mon, 23 Nov 2009 17:34:36 +0100

Adam Ondra climbing lesson at Puurs!
An alert mind that allows for quick descision making. Check! A huge repertoire of movements from lots of hard climbing already in the age of sixteen. Check! A body that won't hold you back. Check!
Voilà, now you can virtually run through the notoriously overhanging Puurs competition wall! Demonstrated by Adam Ondra winning the IFSC Climbing Worldcup in Belgium Saturday night!
His style is so efficient that we foresee that in the future everybody has to climb like Adam! This video lets you compare the top 3 climbers of the men's finals to analyze their different styles.

Bronx Rock Invitational 2009 - part two

Udo Neumann — Tue, 25 Aug 2009 12:13:45 +0200

Recipe for a fantastic boulder contest:
Invite 12 very different climbers, all with various backgrounds, 6 girls and 6 boys. Have a cool venue ready, with clean structures that allow for creative route setting that challenge all skills for bouldering. Let them pick straws, one girl and one boy share one section on your structure. Leave it open to them if or if not to coorporate, just ask them to care for each others safety. Let them put up problems, apply as few rules as possible, provide the girls with 2 additional (bad!) holds to compensate for reach etc. Do the ranking / prize thing Melloblocco style, each problem is worth x €, divided through the ascendonistas so nobody returns empty handed. After them setting for one hour, do something for your audience, get into the climber's head, ask them for the idea behind their problem, some might have one, some not, the crowd loves world class climbers talk about climbing!

Than it is bouldering time!

Your job is done, from now on the thing flows by itself! The climbers support each other, the vibe is friendly and the air electric. Some unexpected turns are to be expected, boys get grey hair over "easy" girl problems, girls cheat by solving macho moves with girl technique. More grey hair for the boys! After 90 minutes everybody is wasted beyond believe and you have clear, undisputed winners. (Jule & Jonas in this case) Everybody is happy.

Trust me, we did it three times now. It is called BRONX ROCK INVITATIONAL!

Besser Bouldern workshop

Udo Neumann — Tue, 30 Jun 2009 12:53:39 +0200

Besser Bouldern workshop von Udo Neumann im Blockwerk Mainz, 2009

Petrohradske PADani 2009

Udo Neumann — Sat, 02 May 2009 12:23:18 +0200

What a lovely event that is! We met in the village of Petrorahd, Petr Resch led us to this years' area, where everybody, armed with the brand new guidebook tried to solve as many of the stunning granit problems as possible. The weather gods were gentle this year and we had two great days in the Czech forest. I mainly shot stills for my upcoming bouldering book this time. Some sequences are shot so rapidly that it makes for an entertaining slideshow. Enjoy!

Gibbon Climbing Club, Bali, Indonesia

Udo Neumann — Mon, 09 Mar 2009 20:22:35 +0100

Indonesia's island of Bali is mainly known for its surfing. Especially on the Bukhit peninsula you find some of the worlds most epic surfspots in close proximity. We also came here mainly to surf, but while approaching some of the spots like Uluwatu or Padang Padang, my Boulderers keeps telling me "wait a moment, there is actually some really good rock here!"
Whereas Indonesia is build from volcanic activity, these cliffs are made from a very mediteranean, juggy limestone.
This is my surfbuddy Markus at the entrance and exit cave for surfing at Uluwatu. Later Gabi and I check out the bouldering at Padang Padang which is actually really good. There are even some short sport routes here and we are wondering who had bolted those lines.

Conny knows about the existence of a climbing scene on Bali and of some obscure area in the mountains, but unfortunately little more.
One day, with the help of a local driver, we set out to find it. The area Conny had in mind is rich on high quality volcanic rock, but doesn't show any signs of development. The further we go, the fewer people understand any English.
This feels very far away from civilization!
After some nice, but ultimately futile hiking we decide to tell our driver what we are looking for and having him figure it out with the local people.
Our hopes are high when the first group of people he asks all were pointing into the same direction, but sink, when in the next village, after a couple of kilometers on terrible dirt roads, nobody seemed to understand what the hell we were talking about!
After much back and forth we arrive at a cliff that didn't look any better than the many we had seen before.
A thunderstorm is approaching and our driver is concerned how to make it back through those dirt roads. We just climb one route on very high quality crimpy volcanic rock, before hurrying back.
Who had put these bolts in?

You know that climbing is becoming popular when you find more artificial climbing walls than say, soccer fields on an island like Bali!
At least here, in a semi abandoned shopping mall near Kuta, we finally get the phone number of Dani Handani, one of the driving forces behind Bali climbing.
Dani is heading the Gibbon Climbing Club which is just about to get familiar with their new, excellent training facilities.
Bali people are some of the nicest human beings you could ever hope to deal with! Quickly we make plans for a presentation of mine about how to go about training and getting the most benefit from their facilities. The workshop takes place on our last night on Bali.
The difference between my analytic German approach and the Bali way of doing things is obvious, still everybody has a good time!
I am surely enjoying myself in the midst of these stoked and soulful people. Thank you Bali, thank you Gibbon climbing club!

2te Lizenz zum Klettern DVD

Udo Neumann — Tue, 09 Dec 2008 19:13:43 +0100

Die zweite Lizenz zum Klettern DVD ist keine Neuauflage der ersten Lizenz DVD, sondern eine Ergänzung und Erweiterung mit neuem Konzept „Kletterleistung de/konstruiert.“ Am Anfang steht die Frage „Was wissen wir übers Klettern?“ Auf der fast fünf Stunden dauernden DVD demonstrieren Dir die besten Kletterer unserer Zeit den momentanen Stand der Dinge im Bouldern und Klettern. Näheres auf www.LizenzzumKlettern.de

Buildering 2008 WC

Martin Hochbruck — Mon, 01 Dec 2008 17:04:16 +0100

Watch Martin Hochbruck's interesting account of the 2008 BUILDERING WC in and around Essen! (BUILDERING = BoulDERING on BUILDings! btw)

the BAZ! movie

Udo Neumann — Thu, 02 Oct 2008 00:30:42 +0200

The BAZ! 2008 has been the best climbing related event I've ever been to and so the documentary about it became almost 35 minutes long. The first part tells you the logistics of such a huge event and gives some impressions of the open contest. The second part is about the finals with lots of split screens to compare climbers and some incredible fisheye close-up footage. Around 700 climbers from all over the world met to climb on 200 carefully crafted problems, the best youngsters and adults made it into the enthralling finals that took place in front of a magical sunset (these guys are friends with all weathergods too!). Everything was top notch at the BAZ! 2008, with the help of more than 100 volunteers (!!!), they built 3 huge "boulders" and the final stage. They had DJ's, live music,impressive light, good food and some of the best route setting by any standard.

Daniel Pohl, Felsenbauer

Udo Neumann — Thu, 18 Sep 2008 19:33:09 +0200

Daniel Pohl hat während des letzten Jahres drei klasse Bouldergebiete dort geschaffen wo vorher nix war! Die Felsen gab es natürlich schon, nur dass Gelände darunter war absolut grausig. Daniel ist Steinmetz UND Diplom-Geologe in Personalunion und kann deshalb wunderbare Natursteinmauern bauen mit denen die Terassen befestigt werden. Das Ganze ist eine Mischung aus Landschaftskunst und dem, was BMXer und MTBler auch schon eine Weile im Verborgenen tun. In diesen drei clips wird das Nangijala, der Dachriegel des Kamouraskas und die hängenden Gärten vorgestellt. Man sieht sich am Ruhrsandstein!

Was wissen wir übers Klettern? -Teil 1

Udini — Wed, 20 Aug 2008 14:35:36 +0200

Ausschnitt aus dem Kapitel "Was wissen wir übers Klettern?" der Zweiten Lizenz zum Klettern DVD die im Herbst 2008 erscheint. Unser nächster Verwandter im Tierreich ist der Bonobo oder Zwergchimpanse. Von den bekannten „normalen“ Chimpansen unterscheidet er sich durch sein friedlicheres Verhalten und eine zierlichere Statur. Er ist aber trotz der Bezeichnung „Zwergschimpanse“ annähernd gleich groß. Zusammen mit Orang-Utans, Gorillas und Schimpansen gehören wir zur Familie der großen Menschenaffen. ie Frühgeschichte der Menschenaffen kann etwa 32 Mio. Jahre zurückverfolgt werden. Innerhalb unserer Familie gibt es verschieden enge Verwandtschaftsgrade, so sind Schimpansen und Gorillas näher mit uns als mit den Orang-Utans verwandt. Erst vor rund 6 Millionen Jahren trennten sich die Wege von Menschen und Schimpansen.Das heisst also, dass selbst wenn wir das Klettern sofort nach der Trennung von den Chimpansen aufgegeben HÄTTEN (was wir offensichtlich nicht haben) hat jeder Mensch, egal ob er klettert oder nicht, 24 Millionen Jahre Klettererfahrung in sich!

NBS, Spittle Hill 2007

Udini — Thu, 07 Aug 2008 12:18:47 +0200

Das Finale bei der NBS 2007 im Neuseeländischen Spittle Hill ist ein Beispiel für einen sehr gelungenen "Draussen Jede(r) Man Frau Boulderwettbewerb"!
Sich und seine Leistung vergleichen zu wollen ist menschlich. Wettbewerbe bieten dazu die beste und ehrlichste Möglichkeit. Alle anderen Vergleiche, etwa über Schwierigkeitsgrade, oder Schnelligkeit der Begehung bzw. Abwertung schon bestehender Klettereien ist unbefriedigend und artet oft in Erbsenzählerei aus.
Seit über 30 jahren die ursprünglichste und immer noch sehr lebendige Austragungsform von Kletterwettbewerben ist der draussen stattfindende Boulderwettbewerb für jedermann und jede Frau. Natürlich braucht man für die Austragung einer solchen Veranstaltung ein grosses Bouldergebiet, aber auch die Infrastruktur um es für Teilnehmer und Zuschauer zugänglich zu machen.

Annot bouldering

Udo Neumann — Sat, 19 Jul 2008 16:21:23 +0200

January 2001: On the way back from Spain Klem Loskot and Werner "Gamsi" Gamsjäger checked out the incredible Annot bouldering. Klem did the second ascent of Toni Lamprecht's "La morsure de la petite chanteuse, 8b" ...

Antonator & the history of Atlantiswand bouldering

Sat, 05 Jul 2008 16:01:55 +0200

Der Ausschnitt aus dem Film „Atlantiswand bouldern, 10,000 BC bis 2008“ zeigt einen interessanten Vergleich zweier Begehungen von „Antonator, 8b“. Nachdem Toni 1997 die Erstbegehung gelungen war, wurde der Antonator als „unmöglich“ für jeden nicht seine körperlichen Voraussetzungen (1,88m Körpergröße, knapp 2m Spannweite) hat, beurteilt. Chris Münch zeigte bei seiner dritten Begehung 2008 jedoch, dass der Antonator durch raffinierten Einsatz von Hooks für jeden knackbar ist...

Verdon Deep Water Soloing

Udo Neumann — Fri, 23 May 2008 17:38:08 +0200

Deep water soloing or psicobloc is obviously not only possible above the sea, but also above rivers and lakes. Where the Verdon river enters the Lac de St. Croix you have a bit of both, moving water that is still pleasantly warmed up in the lake. The only real danger are the zillions of tourists that populate the lake in summertime. Even if you yell at them they might not understand the language or are not aware of the danger of someone falling on their head. Still Anna Brenk, Frederike Förster, Markus and Daniel Jung were enjoying the Verdon limestone and the refreshing water as you can see on these photos. Udini shot this footage for the "Soul Climbing" part of the upcoming "Die 2te Lizenz zum Klettern" DVD, due fall 2008.
Enjoy summer!

Ah, one more thing: try to bring your own floating device, those pedalos are not cheap...

Les Marche du temps - en libre!

Udo Neumann — Fri, 16 May 2008 14:00:46 +0200

Les Marches du temps (the flow of time) is one of the best routes in the Grand Canyon du Verdon, the largest Canyon in Europe. If, if it could be entirely free climbed especially! Till 2006, the only option for the tenth pitch is a somewhat ugly bolt ladder that is a sore spot on the route. Toni Lamprecht and Uli Strunz bolt a free climbable variation to the left of the bolt ladder in summer 2006 but are shut down by terrible weather. They return easter 2007 and eventually free climb Les Marches du temps.
"Les Marches du temps-en libre" is told in a "memento" style way, starting with the end and leading through flashbacks, interview snippets and time warps to the "discovery" of the route.
The full 50 minutes documentary will be part of Udo Neumann's upcoming "Licence to climb" DVD (fully voice-overed and subtitled in English!) as an example of advanced multi-pitch-route-tactics!

"Assasin, Monkey and Man", FA by Toni Lamprecht

Udo Neumann — Thu, 17 Apr 2008 18:43:57 +0200

Is this the hardest boulder problem in Germany? Most likely, considering how much effort the Antonator put into this line, how well he knows every little detail of Atlantiswand (the cliff with the world's highest concentration of hard sport climbing and bouldering!) and how true Toni has been to accurate judgement in the past. Regardless how future climbers will rate "Assasin, Monkey and Man", it is a new school line with nightmarishly intricate and complicated moves along this prow on typical "no friction" Kochel limestone.
This footage will be part of Udo Neumann's upcoming DVD "Climbing Performance De-constructed." Stay tuned!

"Assasin, Monkey and Man", Toni trying March 22nd,

Udo Neumann — Thu, 17 Apr 2008 18:44:32 +0200

Never in the history of bouldering Albert Einstein's saying "It's not that I'm so smart, it's just that I stay with problems longer." was more true than with Toni Lamprecht's approach to "Assasin, Monkey and Man". This clip was shot on March 22nd, after Toni had been working for 3 months on "Assasin" This footage will be part of Udo Neumann's upcoming DVD "Climbing Performance De-constructed." Stay tuned!

Neulich im Buchenhain

Udo Neumann — Thu, 17 Apr 2008 17:18:57 +0200

"Neulich im Buchenhain", oder: "Die Saubayern sind immer noch die Kernigsten!"

nach der Arbeit treffen sich Münchener Kletterer im legendären Buchenhain. Auch im Winter. Wenn es regnet werden Planen gespannt, zu kalt gibt es nicht. Toni erzählt mir, dass die 22jährige Sonia Hofer kurz davor ist sein The bottle wins the battle again zu wiederholen. Als ich eines Abends im November 2007 im Buchenhain filme, habe ich unverschämtes Glück: Norbert macht kurzen Prozess mit Stein des Weisen und Sonia macht The bottle wins the battle again gleich zweimal für die Kamera! Vor Allem muss ich mir aber leider eingestehen, dass die Saubayern immer noch die kernigsten Kletterer sind! Neulich im Buchenhain ist der erste Teil unserer "Obskures Bouldern in D-land" Reihe...

Bronx Rock Invitational 2008, 17min clip

Udini — Fri, 29 Feb 2008 11:36:00 +0100

The future is female! The Bronx Rock Invitational 2008 invited eight very different female climbers from very different climbing backgrounds to compete in Udo Neumann's unique "screw-it-yourself" format. The "chosen" eight were: Barbara Zangerl, Layla Mammi, Juliane Wurm, Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ines Bischoff, Julia Winter, Angelica Lind and Vera Zijlstra. The competitors have one hour to put up their own boulder problem on one alloted section of the wall. Each one has an identical set of 30 Holds. After this hour we analyze the various boulder problems on a huge video screen and interview the climbers. Now for the real comp: They have 90 minutes to climb their own and as many of the other's problems as possible. You can not win the contest without climbing your own problem though! Julia Winter from Dresden finally became the undisputed winner of this intense but friendly and incredibly attractive event. What the results don't tell you is how homogeneous the climbing skills of the invited climbers where. Women seem to be the better course setters too: everybody climbed her own problem! The prize for the nicest problem (#8) went to Vera Zijlstra who is an stunning talent in this field, she put it up in only 30 minutes!!! While nobody could repeat Barbara Zangerl's, Juliane Wurm's and Angelica Lind's problem, everybody enjoyed Layla Mammi's #5. This 17 minute clip introduces the girls and shows them climbing their problems. Footage from this and last year's comp will be part of Udo Neumann's upcoming "Climbing Performance De:constructed" DVD! Stay tuned for more soon!

File Download (16:54 min / 74 MB)

BRI08_teaser

Udini — Sun, 10 Feb 2008 10:40:00 +0100

BRONX ROCK INVITATIONAL 2008, the future is female! Girls and boys perform at an equal standard in climbing... Unlike gymnasts, climbers "compete" on the full spectrum of styles... THE DIFFERENCES BALANCE OUT! BUT: AT COMPS MEN DECIDE WHAT WOMEN HAVE TO CLIMB! THAT IS NOT GOOD! (women don't need any more exposure than they already get to male climbing) Enter the: BRONX ROCK INVITATIONAL 2008, the future is female! (the first women only international climbing contest) in a unique format! 8 very different women from very different climbing backgrounds HAVE ONE HOUR to put up their own problem and 90 minutes to climb their own, & as many of the other problems as possible! Invited are: Angelica Lind (Sweden), Mayan Smith-Gobat (New Zealand), Marietta Uhden (Germany), Julia Winter (Germany), Juliane Wurm (Germany), Barbara Zangerl (Austria), Vera Zijlstra (Netherlands) See you Feb 16th @ Bronx Rock Kletterhalle! Layla Mammi (Germany)

File Download (2:37 min / 22 MB)

Wolfgang GULLICH vs Patrick EDLINGER, 1989

Udini — Wed, 31 Oct 2007 17:19:00 +0100

Wolfgang Güllich and Patrick Edlinger compared climbing on the qualification route of the first "Internationale Deutsche Klettermeisterschaft" 1989 in Munich. We didn't leave Wolfgang alone struggling with the route, so we put the later winner Patrick Edlinger next to him for comparison. While both were rock climbing legends already at this time, their style was quite different. Wolfgang hardly ever climbed onsight whereas Patrick Edlinger was able to climb many difficult and bolt routes all over the world first try. His flash of Acid Crack in Joshua Tree was the first lead of this climb ever for example! Wolfgang of course never returned to climbing competitions after this shattering experience, but focused on doing hard redpoints. He became the first climber doing 8b+ (Punks in the Gym, Australia), 8c (Wallstreet, Germany) and of course 9a with Action Direct in Germany's Frankenjura.

File Download (5:54 min / 17 MB)

Dave Graham interview

Udini — Mon, 20 Aug 2007 11:50:00 +0200

Interview with the "wizzard of climbing", Dave Graham. Conducted July 2007, just before Dave climbed "Realization, 9a+" in Ceuze.

File Download (30:35 min / 100 MB)

Bronx Rock Invitational, die Entscheidung beim Klettern

Udini — Sun, 03 Jun 2007 15:01:00 +0200

Jeder der acht Teilnehmer bekam einen Wandteil im weitläufigen Bronx Rock Boulderbereich zugelost, an dem er mit einem für jeden Teilnehmer gleichen Set von 30 Bleaustone Griffen innerhalb von einer Stunde sein Boulderproblem schrauben musste. Das Schrauben war für den Wettbewerb viel wichtiger, spannender und für die Teilnehmer anstrengender als wir es erwartet hätten. Unter den Augen des Publikums entstanden acht völlig unterschiedliche Probleme, die teilweise übrigens in der Bronx Rock Kletterhalle weiterhin von jederman probiert werden können. Im Anschluss erfolgte eine Analyse der Boulder auf der Videoleinwand im Gespräch mit den Teilnehmern und Fachleuten, was den Zuschauern die Möglichkeit gab in bisher nicht gekannten Maße in die Komplexität des Boulderns einzusteigen. Danach wurden die acht gesetzten Probleme im offenen Modus von den Teilnehmern versucht zu klettern. Bewertet wurde dabei nicht nur die sportliche Leistung, sondern auch der Style und die Kreativität beim Schrauben, also der beste Boulder. Wer sein eigenes Problem nicht klettern konnte bekam 3 Punkte abgezogen, eine Flashbegehung brachte 2 Punkte, eine „normale“ Begehung einen Punkt…Gerade frisch aus La Reunion hereingeschwebt dominierte Jonas Baumann das Bronx Rock Invitational 2007 und bestätigte dass er im Moment Deutschlands #1 am Plastik ist. Zielstrebig und konzentriert bebaute er seinen Wandteil #8 mit einem sehr attraktiven, modernen Bewegungsproblem. Modern heisst in diesem Zusammenhang, dass keine dezidierten Tritte geschraubt werden und die Bewegungen deshalb dynamisch und raumgreifend sind. Als einziger kletterte Jonas seine #8. Zweiter wurde der bärenstarke Andre Borowka, der überdies eine interessante taktische Variante beim Schrauben einführte. Andre war Wandteil # 2 zugelost worden. Er schraubte gute Zwischengriffe in die Wand, tastete sich mit ihrer Hilfe an den Schlüsselzug heran und entfernte die Griffe dann wieder. Eine taktische Finesse die wir beim nächsten Bronx Rock Invitational wohl öfters sehen werden. Andre kletterte seine #2, was ausser ihm nur noch Jonas gelang. Wie bereits erwähnt war die Atmosphäre beim Schrauben sehr intensiv. Es zahlte sich aus, einen klaren Kopf und ein Konzept zu haben. Wahrscheinlich auch deshalb landete Maxi Klaus mit solider Kletterkunst und einem klaren puristischen Problem auf dem dritten Platz. Drei Teilnehmer könnten ihr eigenes Problem leider nicht klettern, was ihren Erfolg innerhalb dieses Modus natürlich zunichte machte. Als schönstes Problem wählten die Teilnehmer Chrissi Benks #6, knapp vor Maxis #5.

File Download (15:20 min / 68 MB)

Bronx Rock Invitational Zusammenfassung Teil 1, Schrauben und Analyse

Udini — Mon, 28 May 2007 13:47:00 +0200

„Gebt das Klettern denen zurück, die etwas davon verstehen!“ war das Motto des ersten Bronx Rock Invitational. Und tatsächlich, die acht eingeladenen Kletterer, von Jonas Baumann, dem Deutscher Bouldermeister 2006 über Kletterlegende & Boulderpapst Toni Lamprecht, Christian Benk (Buildering Weltmeister 2006) und Maxi Klaus, Deutschlands Chefschrauber bei internationalen Wettbewerben, boten eine neue Dimension an Attraktivität für die Zuschauer, die an diesem Abend die einmalige Möglichkeit hatten, den Topkletterern quasi über die Schulter zu schauen und die verschiedenen Stile zu vergleichen.

File Download (16:12 min / 72 MB)

Bronx Rock Invitational-Teilnehmer

Udini — Tue, 08 May 2007 12:55:00 +0200

Portrait der Bronx Rock Invitational-Teilnehmer

File Download (2:22 min / 21 MB)

Bronx Rock Invitational-Teaser

Udini — Tue, 08 May 2007 12:54:00 +0200

Teaser für den Einladungswettbewerb "Bronx Rock Invitational" am 12.05.2007 in Köln Wesseling

File Download (4:06 min / 34 MB)

Petrohradske_Padani_2006

Udini — Tue, 08 May 2007 12:52:00 +0200

Impressions from this nice bouldering contest in the Czech Republic. Featuring Adam Ondra, 15 years, already one of the best climbers around. Adam flashed most of the problems up to 7c+, but still wasn't declared winner for whatever reasons. It didn't seem to bother him or any of the locals since we all shared a great day in the lovely Petrohrad forest!