Before we'll leave for the first Boulder World Cup of the season in Canada, here is our comparison of top male climbers at the European Bouldering Championships in Innsbruck 2105, starting with qualification round’s problem #3 in group B, that was only solved (in the last seconds) by Adam Ondra and Jan Hojer.
The men’s semis and finals had interesting dynamics insofar as among the top four, Adam Ondra, Stefan Scarperi and Jakob Schubert all topped problems that no other competitor could climb.
The semi-finals had extremely difficult boulder problems. The first one was topped only by Jakob Schubert, the second only by Adam Ondra, Michael Piccolruaz and 2009 world champion Alexey Rubtsov while problem #3 remained unconquered.
Big names such as Gelmanov, Sharafudtinov and Glairon-Mondet failed to make it through to the last round and were replaced by Martin Stráník and Stefan Scarperi along with Rubtsov, Ondra, Hojer and Schubert.
The first problem was topped by Ondra only. Unluckily for him, though, his flash attempt was halted because he had touched the marked off wall to the right during the dyno. He sent it second go.
Jan Hojer produced an impressive flash of the second problem, a dyno to a hold that was out of sight, whilst Jakob Schubert managed to send it in the dying seconds of his round.
The third problem was characterised by vertical symmetry as the holds were identical on both two sides. This resulted in many different types of beta, although the only athlete who actually managed to stick the extremely slick and slopy holds was Stefan Scarperi of Italy.
Jan Hojer climbed climbed the last problem on his second attempt, securing the title. Adam Ondra came in second after climbing the last boulder in four attempts and, since no one else managed to reach its top, Stefan Scarperi held on to bronze. Just one attempts separated him from Jakob Schubert who had looked impressively strong throughout the qualifications and semi-final.
Zum ersten Mal machte der Deutsche Bouldercup in Köln Station – und wie: Der Jubel von rund 1.000 Zuschauern ließ am vergangenen Wochenende die Wände des neuen Boulderzentrums „Stuntwerk“ erzittern. Nicht weniger als 115 Athletinnen und Athleten gingen beim zweiten Termin der Wettkampfserie an den Start. Juliane Wurm und Jan Hojer ließen wie gewohnt nichts anbrennen und holten sich verdient den Tagessieg. Nachdem sie auch beim ersten Termin der Wettkampfserie gewonnen hatten, führen Wurm und Hojer die Gesamtwertung weiterhin souverän an.
the male podium of the Bouldering World Championships consisted of Jan Hojer, born 1992 near Cologne in Germany, Jernej Kruder, born 1990 in Celje in Slovenia and Adam Ondra, born 1993 in Brno in the Czech Republic.
From the qualifications on, it became clear that Alex Puccio and Juliane Wurm were in their best shape ever. Alex had skipped the last two events of the Bouldering World Cup 2014 to re-charge her batteries with some of the hardest rock bouldering ever done by a woman.
The third contender for the title was Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi, winner of the 2014 Bouldering World Cup, her third overall title after 2009 and 2010.
With Anna Stöhr injured and other potential shoo-ins like Miho Nonoka and Shauna Coxsey not in peak shape the Bouldering World Championships in Munich became a battle between Akiyo, Alex and Jule. Only Alex and Jule could climb problem #3 in the semis by showing some of the strongest performances in bouldering competition history. Jule won the semis, followed by Akiyo. Both needed two tries for the first problem in the finals, which Alex had flashed. Than, after tremendous struggle, Akiyo couldn’t top problem #2, Alex needed two tries and Jule flashed it. That problem was hard !
After problem #3 didn’t see an ascent, it came down to problem #4 between Alex and Jule. Whoever would do it with fewer tries would become Bouldering World Champion 2014! After Alex needed just 6 attempts, the pressure was on Jule. She kept it together though and secured her first world title! If you want to learn more about Juliane Wurm, please check out our 2011 portrait „Jule dreams of bouldering" If you want to get an idea about the training of Juliane Wurm and the German Bouldering Team, check out our playlist.
It should be noted that the World Cup in Haiyang was a very weak one, taking place in a ghost town without any real spectators. As a result (?), route setting was weak too, but these issues are the subject of another analysis in the future, let’s talk about the bouldering instead for now!
Before these two world cups, Jan Hojer and Dmitry Sharafutdinov were just a view points apart, as were Shauna Coxsey and Akiyo Noguchi.
Jan and Dmitri were looking forward to a friendly death match when Dmitri ran into some personal problems that clearly were not helping his bouldering. For the first time in ages he failed to qualify for the finals.
Especially at the end of the season Shauna and Akiyo climbed clearly better than the other girls through all the rounds.
Haiyang was won by Akiyo Noguchi and Jan Hojer.