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Besser Klettern

  • Es ist ein ... Stuntwerk!

    Ich habe bisher auf dieser Seite noch nicht über die futuristische Parkour- und Boulderhalle STUNTWERK in Köln berichtet, diese möchte ich nun, eine Woche vor der Eröffnung nachholen. Unsere Geschichte beginnt mit Read More
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  • top female climbers compared

    Comparison of top female climbers. 2015 overall world cup winner Akiyo Noguchi, World and European champion Juliane Wurm, Alex Puccio, american youngsters Margo Hayes and Megan Mascarenas, Miho Nonaka, Moni Read More
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better climbing with udinishop

udini shop_teaser 


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Montag, 21 Dezember 2015 17:58

German Bouldering Team plays at Stuntwerk

German Bouldering Team plays at Stuntwerk at the first meeting for the 2016 Bouldering World Cup season. We ran quite a lot of tests and assesments and tried out new stuff as you can see!
Dienstag, 15 September 2015 14:59

Hangeln - climbing with swinging feet

In climbing, it sometimes it is easier to let our feet swinging through the air instead of trying to use them on the wall. This liberates the choice of our body’s position in three dimensional space.
„Campussing" seems to be the established term in english-speaking sport climbing and bouldering communities.
Campussing stems from the Campus board, a two dimensional training device.
Training on the Campus board is intended to build finger, arm and shoulder strength. It consists of bending your arms with hands in a pronated position and a static phase while reaching the next rung with the other hand.

Mind you, this is a training exercise, not the most efficient movement. If we initiate the motion with our center of gravity we can move faster and more efficiently with just our hands.

Other activities share the basic concept of locomotion, but different arrangements and distances between the points of contact and especially the infinite variety of angle, surface and size of the holds is unique to climbing.

Hangeln is the German term for this locomotion. Hangeln is understood by everybody in the german speaking world, regardless of age and background. Hangeln is what monkeys do in the trees. This reflects in the english translation „brachiation“ - a term used in zoology but not in climbing circles.
Hangeln is a truly three dimensional movement involving our whole anatomy. Every part of our body is spiraling in a particular fashion and sequence. The body is a true gestalt entity – the total is more than the sum of its parts.

We’re only just at the beginning of realizing what hangeln can do for our climbing - let’s start by not calling it just „campussing“ anymore, will ya?
Dienstag, 11 August 2015 07:22

top female climbers compared

Comparison of top female climbers. 2015 overall world cup winner Akiyo Noguchi, World and European champion Juliane Wurm, Alex Puccio, american youngsters Margo Hayes and Megan Mascarenas, Miho Nonaka, Moni Retschy, Shauna Coxsey and of course the fantastic Anna Stöhr showing their skills in Innsbruck, Toronto and Vail 2015.

Before we'll leave for the first Boulder World Cup of the season in Canada, here is our comparison of top male climbers at the European Bouldering Championships in Innsbruck 2105, starting with qualification round’s problem #3 in group B, that was only solved (in the last seconds) by Adam Ondra and Jan Hojer.
The men’s semis and finals had interesting dynamics insofar as among the top four, Adam Ondra, Stefan Scarperi and Jakob Schubert all topped problems that no other competitor could climb.
The semi-finals had extremely difficult boulder problems. The first one was topped only by Jakob Schubert, the second only by Adam Ondra, Michael Piccolruaz and 2009 world champion Alexey Rubtsov while problem #3 remained unconquered.
Big names such as Gelmanov, Sharafudtinov and Glairon-Mondet failed to make it through to the last round and were replaced by Martin Stráník and Stefan Scarperi along with Rubtsov, Ondra, Hojer and Schubert.

The first problem was topped by Ondra only. Unluckily for him, though, his flash attempt was halted because he had touched the marked off wall to the right during the dyno. He sent it second go.

Jan Hojer produced an impressive flash of the second problem, a dyno to a hold that was out of sight, whilst Jakob Schubert managed to send it in the dying seconds of his round.

The third problem was characterised by vertical symmetry as the holds were identical on both two sides. This resulted in many different types of beta, although the only athlete who actually managed to stick the extremely slick and slopy holds was Stefan Scarperi of Italy.

Jan Hojer climbed climbed the last problem on his second attempt, securing the title. Adam Ondra came in second after climbing the last boulder in four attempts and, since no one else managed to reach its top, Stefan Scarperi held on to bronze. Just one attempts separated him from Jakob Schubert who had looked impressively strong throughout the qualifications and semi-final.
Freitag, 27 März 2015 09:00

Deutscher Bouldercup, Stuntwerk 2015

Zum ersten Mal machte der Deutsche Bouldercup in Köln Station – und wie: Der Jubel von rund 1.000 Zuschauern ließ am vergangenen Wochenende die Wände des neuen Boulderzentrums „Stuntwerk“ erzittern. Nicht weniger als 115 Athletinnen und Athleten gingen beim zweiten Termin der Wettkampfserie an den Start. Juliane Wurm und Jan Hojer ließen wie gewohnt nichts anbrennen und holten sich verdient den Tagessieg. Nachdem sie auch beim ersten Termin der Wettkampfserie gewonnen hatten, führen Wurm und Hojer die Gesamtwertung weiterhin souverän an.
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