starting to climb and beginning to study sport science fell into the same period for me, so I have been always interested in training for climbing, even when I wasn't training myself. The recent pics are from my work as the German boulder coach!

Viele neue Hallen & Aktualisierungen!

... is an iPad app based on our (German) book "Lizenz zum Bouldern" (see teaser below) we are developing at the moment.

 Read the rave reviews for the book here:

"I, you, he, she, it boulders. We, you, they know: Bouldering is great. Generally, you don't need to know more, if anything. You can do it just like that. If you (or others) try to find out what bouldering is all about, some tested catchphrases, nowadays found in almost any outdoor guide book, are usually enough by itself to create an appealing image. And that's a good thing. 

But what if you want to know more, if you want to explore this topic in depth and say something about the phenomenon bouldering that differs from stereotypical views: then you write a book about it, like Udo ”Udini“ Neumann did. Why he named this book ”Lizenz zum Bouldern“, in connection with another book by this author (Lizenz zum Klettern), is understandable. It goes without saying that this book is not about fancy words, but about providing a deeper understanding. Its pinch of scientific content is well dosed. However, ”Lizenz zum Bouldern“, just like another book by Udini, ”Der XI. Grad“, also is not a training guide. What these two works have in common, however, is their evocativeness, conveyed by fun-to-look-at layouts and graphics as well as intelligent and humorous, but in no way know-all texts that make your fingertips sweat.

This page-turner makes you want to know more, to go out there and do it – bouldering. 

Complete novelties are the elaborately arranged video analyses of various bouldering world cups. Sounds boring, but it's extremely interesting to take a closer look at the approach of people that know how to do it. The accompanying analyses are enlightening and may be relied upon: as a coach of the DAV national bouldering team Udo knows, what he is talking about.

Overall, a gem with an unmistakable Udini-style that belongs on every bookshelf, not far from the latest issue of CLIMAX."

– Climax (Austria)

Very nice video of Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat in this mythical Rätikon route, with Nina making the first women ascent of one of the hardest multipitch routes in the world.

Eine Woche vor der Eröffnung hat uns Marc Stellbogen durch die Boulderwelt Frankfurt geführt.

"I first climbed on an indoor wall in 1986, and I doubt I’ve gone a month without climbing indoors since. In the past 26 years, I’ve had some of my most memorable life experiences around indoor climbing. After training in Denver gyms and on a home woody that filled my basement, I redpointed the hardest rock climbs of my life. I courted both of my wives in the gym. (I should be clear: It was one after the other.) I’ve also had two of my worst climbing injuries in the gym. I still climb indoors at least once a week, often several times a week. Yet I have a love-hate relationship with indoor climbing. Like many climbers, my heart is with real climbs on rock and ice, and on any given day, I’d prefer to be outside. And this got me thinking: How could the gym experience be improved for outdoor-oriented climbers like me, so I’ll be more likely to return week after week? I like the gym, but I want to love it..."

download "The Perfect Gym" (the CWA Climbing Wall Summit Keynote 2012 by Dougald MacDonald) here, a highly recommended read!

Nice clip about the BloKuhaka festival that took place September 2012 in Kerlouan (Brittany, France), one of our favorite bouldering areas in Europe.

On September 16, in occasion of the Sunday press conference, during the World Championships in Paris, the IFSC unveiled some details of their bid to be included in the 2020 Olympic Games. Marco Scolaris (President of the IFSC) announced that IFSC proposed LEAD for both men and women for the 2020 Olympic Games, confirming the visit of two observers from the IOC during the two-day-finals. "Lead is the historical and traditional climbing discipline. It is the expression of climbing most commonly perceived by the public and a popular event among climbers and non-climbers. Lead events have also the most universal representation and is the discipline that a majority of our national federations indicated as their favorite. Lead brings athletes beyond vertical in a continuous gravity challenge, and TV experts pointed out they need the height challenge. The choice of one discipline only is the result of the existing limit in terms of athletes. However we do not exclude the fact that one day the 3 disciplines will be represented at the Olympic Games!".

Created in 2007, the IFSC has spent its first years to build up a dynamic but solid structure, based on principles of good governance, universality, equal opportunities, transparency ; spectacular events ruled by highest standard of rules ; athletes inclusion in the IF decision-making processes at all levels ; anti-doping policies and athletes health and integrity protection. The potentiality for media interest and sponsor support is constant, exposure is increasing. The trend is upward, like in a climb progression is under control, staying true to the core values of the sport. "The IFSC believes that the inclusion of sport climbing would benefit the Olympic Games by bringing a passionate young audience to the Games. Sport Climbing speaks to young people and gets them involved in a sport they can practice for the rest of their lives. It also speaks to each of us: men and women, boys and girls, kids, elders and paraclimbers... all play in and on the same field. Sport climbing is also unique as it is a vertical sport which uses body and mind to climb. Apparel and tools only exist to protect the climber if gravity wins: human beings are not birds, we can (in life chronological order) crawl, swim, climb, walk, run, jump, but not fly. World up is the IFSC motto...because humans are all natural born climbers. ", said M. Scolaris. The next step in the Olympic bid is now a presentation to the IOC Program Commission in December in Lausanne, The final decision on the possible inclusion of a new sport in the 2020 Olympic Games, following the possible exclusion of a sport currently in the program, will be taken by the IOC in September 2013, during the Session in Buenos Aires.

from the IFSC site, submitted by Anne Fuynel on 2012-09-26 - 17:15

... in this clip there are quite a few shots from our "poor man's spider cam" in the Munich 2012 BWC report.

Above you see the "spider cam" in action, attached are 2 GroPros (one on a mini remote head) and one (hacked) Lumix GF-2. At the Munich 2012 BWC, the cameras were remotly controlled by Peter Hierl. The "sled" of the "spider cam" needs to be opened so you thread the static rope through. The whole system was conceived and build by Jonas Baumann.

Sean McColl demonstrates some of his training exercises in a gym in France. Not sure if this is all Sean does, the excercises are plausible and emphasize on core strenght though. Nice adjustable wall!

Chris Sharma talks about the ‘inside game’ of climbing – how our thoughts can either hinder our performance or enhance our experience. The universal idea of letting go and focusing on the present moment allows us to more fully enjoy our passionate pursuits and our lives… of course this is easier said that done.

... talking of "Höllenaufwand mit Dollies und Kränen (und Dronen) s.o., hier erklärt Cory Rich das Making of seines Filmes "WHY" anlässlich der Produktvorstellung der Nikon D4. "When Nikon approached me to be a part of the D4 release project not only did they ask me to produce a video and stills, showing off the attributes of the new camera, they were also looking for a behind the scenes video spot detailing how "WHY" came together."

With an iPhone 4/s and the iPhone 360 video, you can capture 360° interactive video now! Normally, the Phone 4 captures 720p movie, which is 1280 pixels wide by 720 pixels tall. The first thing that you are likely to notice is that the mirror of the device covers a fairly small portion of the image sensor. While a 720p movie has 921,600 pixels per frame, the only uses about 350,000 of those pixels, which are then spread across the entire 360 degree view, floor to ceiling.

The GoPano App takes the raw camera frame and “unwarps” it, stretching out the image that started as a circle and forming it into a cylinder that wraps around. It’s comparable to the reverse process of making paper globes, like you may recall doing as a young student in grade school.

(so far most clips are from the "Block Fight" boulder contest @ Arena Vertikal, as you can see, the image quality isn't great (gets quite a bit better outdoors when there is enough light though!) but the sensation of moving through the scene with your cursor truly is remarkable!)

Seit 1996 über 45.000 verkaufte Exemplare und immer noch die Bibel des Sportkletterns! "Die große Stärke der "Lizenz" bleibt es, die Frage "Wie werde ich ein besserer Kletterer?" fundiert, von wirklich allen Seiten und mit vielen inspirierenden Gedanken (und Fotos) und praktischen Tips anzugehen." -Klettern

Hier einige Bilder aus der aktuellen Auflage von 2010. Und hier kannst Du Lizenz zum Klettern kaufen!

Am 26. September 2006 hat Chris Sharma nach zahllosen Versuchen seine neue, noch unbenannte Line am Es Pontas im Meer vor Santanyi gemacht. Die über 20 Meter hohe Route vergleicht Chris von den Kletter-Schwierigkeiten her vage mit seiner "Realization" (9a+) in Ceüse. Damit gehört sie sicher zu den schwierigsten Routen der Welt, ist allerdings dadurch, dass man beim psicobloc nicht ausbouldern kann, möglicherweise die am schwierigsten zu kletternde Linie überhaupt!

Bouldern macht so viel Spaß, dass man eigentlich immer nur Bouldern möchte!

Bouldern leitet sich vom englischen Wort für einen Felsblock ab und bezeichnet das Klettern ohne Seil und Klettergurt in Absprunghöhe.

Sowohl an Felsblöcken als auch an künstlichen Strukturen erlebt Bouldern weltweit seit Jahren eine rasante Entwicklung,

Dabei ist Bouldern kein modischer Trendsport, sondern pures, ursprüngliches Klettern für das man wenig mehr als Schuhe, eine Matte und etwas Magnesia braucht.

Die Seilfreiheit macht wesentlich akrobatischere Bewegungen als beim Sportklettern möglich, deshalb wird Bouldern auch als das “Labor der Klettertechnik” bezeichnet.

Zur Lösung moderner Boulderprobleme braucht man ein gutes Auge, intuitives biomechanisches Verständnis und die Körperbeherrschung eines Zirkusartisten.

Um den Blick des Lesers zu entwickeln, zeigt Lizenz zum Bouldern auf hunderten Photos die besten Boulderer unserer Zeit in konkreten Situationen.

Hier kannst Du Dir einige Beispiele anschauen. 

Dabei werden Details sichtbar, die bis dahin selbst den Akteuren verborgen waren. 

Lizenz zum Bouldern ist wie ein Blick über die Schulter des modernen Boulderns!

Bouldern wird als besonders soziale Aktivität geschätzt. Die räumliche Nähe erlaubt unmittelbare Kommunikation, wie sie beim Routenklettern nicht gegeben ist. Nur wenige Aktivitäten ermöglichen eine solch gemeinschaftliche Erfahrung. Ob Weltklasse oder Anfänger - vom gemeinsamen Bouldern profitieren alle!