• 20121220 JanHojer 15-58-02
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Besser Klettern

  • Sisu Masters 2013

    Sisu Masters 2013 is the biggest climbing event ever in Finland. The format is like we did at the "Bronx Rock Invitational" series 2007-2009. Meet the competitors and get a Read More
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Competition

  • Boulder World Cup 2014 - final report

    This is our last Boulder World Cup 2014 report about the event in Haiyang, China and Laval, France. Please check out our gallery with the best shots of the 2014 Boulder World Cup too!It Read More
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Bouldering

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better climbing with udinishop

udini shop_teaser 

 

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Dienstag, 19 August 2014 09:15

German Bouldering Team trainings, 2009-2014


My job as head coach of the German Alpine club's Bouldering team has many faces. It includes to facilitate thinking or learning new behaviour and improve physical skills for personal growth and advancement in the demands of bouldering contests. Another aspect is to transfer as much of my knowledge and experience to my climbers. I’m involved in all the aspects of the sport, including physical and mental development and the application of tactics and strategies during the contests. Competitive bouldering is relatively young so common sense on training program design and injury prevention is not yet established. Climbing is mostly a self-taught activity up to a certain age so that some athletes are not used to being coached. We than have to establish a practise of feedback and critique. The athlete perceives a contest from a first person perspective, feeling a slippery hold or fading strength first hand - whereas I have an outside overview - observing body language, comparing the competitors’ different solutions and keeping the judging in check. To bring these two perceptions to match and to keep the communication running so that we both benefit from our different perspectives is the biggest challenge for any coach.
Often I just ask questions and offer opportunities that will challenge my athletes to find answers from within him- or herself.
The four German Bouldering Team trainings, 2009-2014 videos show some of the methods we tried out and experimented with over the last five years.

Sonntag, 27 Juli 2014 15:59

Boulder World Cup 2014 - final report

This is our last Boulder World Cup 2014 report about the event in Haiyang, China and Laval, France. Please check out our gallery with the best shots of the 2014 Boulder World Cup too!

It should be noted that the World Cup in Haiyang was a very weak one, taking place in a ghost town without any real spectators. As a result (?), route setting was weak too, but these issues are the subject of another analysis in the future, let’s talk about the bouldering instead for now!
Before these two world cups, Jan Hojer and Dmitry Sharafutdinov were just a view points apart, as were Shauna Coxsey and Akiyo Noguchi.
Jan and Dmitri were looking forward to a friendly death match when Dmitri ran into some personal problems that clearly were not helping his bouldering. For the first time in ages he failed to qualify for the finals.
Especially at the end of the season Shauna and Akiyo climbed clearly better than the other girls through all the rounds.
Haiyang was won by Akiyo Noguchi and Jan Hojer.
... after Toronto and Vail, what is new? Well, Akiyo Noguchi is back! For the other interesting aspects that happened in Toronto and Vail, watch our latest Boulder World Cup report!
Donnerstag, 22 Mai 2014 19:15

Boulder World Cup 2014 mid term report

... with comps every weekend, I'll won't be able to do a Boulder World Cup report for each BWC this season. Instead I'll do a brief one midseason, and a big one at the end of the season. Here comes the Boulder World Cup 2014 mid term report! Enjoy!
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